Family-owned Cleburne Cafeteria stands strong during COVID-19

Thursday, August 13, 2020

Why Cleburne was voted best cafeteria in America

This family-owned restaurant has been a part of Houston's history for almost 80 years, serving generations of customers. One-time owner Nick Mickelis, a Greek immigrant, came to Houston after World War II with only a couple dollars in his pocket and a dream of having a better life. He bought [url HREF="cleburnecafeteria.com" TARGET="_blank" REL=""]Cleburne Cafeteria[/url] in 1952 and his family has been running it ever since. The restaurant was destroyed twice by fire and twice it was rebuilt to become an icon. Last year, Food & Wine Magazine named Cleburne Cafeteria the No. 1 cafeteria in America. It was an honor that reflects its long history as a Houston institution.

HOUSTON, Texas -- Family-owned and locally operated restaurant Cleburne Cafeteria has managed to not only stay open, but also maintain its success during COVID-19.

It has been through a combination of leveraging new ways of serving its customers while still keeping true to its roots as a warm and familiar environment with delicious Southern-style home cooking, owner George Mickelis said.

"We're serving you comfort, not just food," George said.

George was "born on top of the restaurant," growing up alongside his sister, Angela Mickelis, upstairs above the cafeteria in a large twelve-room house, supported by two large trees located in the dining room.

George's parents, Nick and Patricia Mickelis, first bought Cleburne Cafeteria in 1952 from the original owners, Anabelle Collins and Martha Kavanaugh. At the time, the cafeteria was at Cleburne and Fannin streets.

Historic Cleburne's Cafeteria barely getting by.

In 1969, Nick and Patricia opted to move the restaurant to its current location on Bissonnet Street, where it now serves customers with table service and a buffet-style line.

Since then, COVID-19 has not been the only challenge the local cafeteria has faced.

On Aug. 9, 1990, the cafeteria was destroyed by a fire, rebuilt and reopened the same year Dec. 2 before being destroyed yet again by a fire in April 2016 then rebuilt.

When COVID-19 came to Houston, Cleburne Cafeteria was steadfast.

Dave Ward shares the restaurant's inspiring family legacy and how two devastating fires only made it stronger than ever.

"We told ourselves that we are resilient," George said. "We will get through this."

George has made it a point to ensure Cleburne Cafeteria continues to serve high-quality food, a lesson taught to him by his father.

"We've always done everything from scratch," he said.

Offerings include fried chicken, turkey and dressing, blackened catfish and fresh salads, as well as homemade dessert offerings such as pies and bread pudding.

Greg Bailey reports on the history and memories of Cleburne Cafeteria, reopening soon

Though Cleburne has maintained its consistency, the COVID-19 pandemic has forced it to adapt. Curbside pickup was added this year, as was drive-up service and some delivery for customers.

Through it all, though, the customer has remained Cleburne Cafeteria's focus.

"You serve people every day, and they become a part of the family," George said. "We're very honored and privileged to serve this community."

Cleburne Cafeteria